Thanks to Paul Nimz,
Loctited my cams yesterday with TW. Worked very well with only the
normal intake removal process problems.
When they say that Loctite 294 is a wicking formula they weren't kidding. The stuff was sucked up into the spline area immediately. Even on the front cam with the hex next to the sprocket. That hex BTW is an 1&1/4" and is very useful for turning the motor over.
Spillage of excess Loctite is no problem. The contact cleaner evaporated before it could run down into the motor. The hardest part was removing the two wiring plugs by the A/C compressor so that the valve cover can be easily taken off. I would say the greatest danger is getting dirt from the outside of the valve cover/heads into the cam area.
'93 EG mtx
Paul did most of the work, he is a much better mechanic than I am. And it was good to see him again. We use a fair amount of loctite until it filled the voids and would no longer wick. I still think we can do at least 2 cars with 10ml of loctite. We did not use or need the special applicator. It was like hand grenades and horse shoes, get it anywhere close and it sucked right it..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron" <email@example.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 11:56 PM
Subject: RE: Cams, explanation, diagrams, procedures and results
The SHO Shop has been looking into cam fixes too. On their web site, they mention trying to epoxy the bits together. They were concerned that whatever they used might not hold up to high engine temps and end up contaminating the engine oil. Anyone know how this Loctite stuff holds up under duress?
I'm sorta waiting for someone to come out with a new cam grind or two.
Scene from my house: "Gee honey, I wouldn't want the car to break down on our next road trip. If you really want to go visit your folks, we'll just HAVE to get those new cam things I told you about..." :-)
1997 Vibrant White
It's a one time deal. After getting to the cams it took about 2 hours to
clean the sprocket and give three applications on all four cams, waiting about
1/2 hour in between. Stopped when they wouldn't take anymore. Buy a 50ml bottle
of Loctite 294. About $40.00 at McMaster.com. You need a can of "no
residue" electrical contact cleaner too.
I think if the cams are in good shape and the application is done correctly it should be a one time job. My cams at 82k and the cams on my spare motor at ~96k all look good.
The hard part is removing everything. Actually cleaning the cams and Appling the Loctite was easy.
1. Remove the valve covers, the hardest part of this is the 2 plugs by the A/C compressor.
2. Scratch a mark on the cam tube to so you can tell where you are at while turning it with a large crescent or 1&1/4" wrench.
3. Spray the contact cleaner using a tube directly into the sprocket/cam tube joint. You will see the contact cleaner spray through to some degree.
4. Rotate the cams ~120 degrees, and respray, rotate another 120. Do this until the whole can of cleaner is used up. Try not to spray so much that the cleaner pools excessively. It is best to do this on a warm engine.
5. Apply the Loctite using the bottle it came in with a very small hole in the tip. Gently squeeze out some as you follow the joint around. It will be drawn immediately into the joint. Avoid excessive amounts and any run off. Wipe up any run off.
6. Rotate the cams 180 degrees and apply some more. Make sure you have gone 360 degrees, then wait 30 minutes and do it again. Mine took three applications before it stopped taking any more up.
25% strength in 5 minutes, 50% in 30 minutes, full cure time is 24 hours.
'93 EG mtx
I have to thank Tim Wright for his research, help, hospitality and patience
in gluing up my cams. It was truly an educational experience for both of
Here is a spec sheet on Loctite 294 Product_294.pdf
'93 EG mtx