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Cam Failures and Cold Weather

new 2/6/04

I know cam failures happen in every state and in all weather but until recently we had less than 10 new failures per month, then 19 in Jan and 5 in 5 days in Feb.

I don't know that cold weather does not make it worse?


No way, I just heard of that and think it’s a farse.. Only way to prove this would be to (listen up Hammy) change the thermo properties of the cam.. With the little bit of cold we are having its not possible to shrink up hardened steel this much..

This test then could be done in a freezer, and the crap about –40 and stuff, sure if the cam shaft stuck through the hood in direct path of the –40 wind.. put it this way, if I still can go the bathroom outside (hint regarding the cold and a great episode of Sienfeild) then the cam is not shrinking and this at best a mediocre type of guess has no validity what so ever. Also what do we tell people in the South that have had cam failures in the summer? You just hit it at the wrong time? Wait till sun up to start the car?

Honestly here now, Hammy what is your engineering opinion of this? Do you have the ability to freeze a cam and measure it?

IMO this theory needs to DIE right now.. Unless someone can deep freeze the cam to a whopping 0 degrees .

I know everyone is looking for theory’s but they are all out on the table. Lets not make another person Leary of this car because of the cold weather now.. PLEASE

Its been twice as cold here (Boston) and in Minot and for twice as long, where are the geological theories? Just because a few die in the Northern Mid West means nothing but that you guys are getting the word out to the public. And for this I applaud!

Kirk J Doucette

I have a big box full of dry ice here in my warehouse at work, that would do the freezing part....too bad I don't know squat about how to test something like this......I not be edumacated enuff for this kinda cr*p.

Rick Glass

Or people have more time during the slow, cold months of January and February to research it and document it. Or they're using these cars as winter beaters (not sure why, but possible?), so they get driven more in the winter? I doubt temperature has much, if anything to do with it. You'd have an easier time making a correlation between failures and the anniversary of the in service date, IMNSHO. And, given the distinct driving habits of different owners, it's just as much a fallacy.

-John Breen III

Simple test, put an inductive amp meter around the starter cable at mid winter (-20F) in MA and measure ~ 350 CCA the do the same when it is 120 F warmer in bean town about mid summer and measure 50 CCA?

how much harder is it to turn over just the the 4 cams and open the valves?

That is a load on the timing chain and sprockets.

If load is a function of weather, and failure is a function of load then failure is a function of weather.

Just wondering, I may be an expert on half time shows and breasts, but I only know so much about cars.


Rick you have a better chance of your blinker fluid freezing that you do of your cam shaft shrinking due to zero degree weather.

Kirk J Doucette

How about increased friction from the thick oil on startup.

Do you guys document when in the driving session the cams break? I.E. startup, after 30 minutes, after 6 hours, etc

~ Mike

Tim honestly…. The Sprocket will also shrink the same amount.. This can happen. The Only one to prove this theory would be Hammy.

In this theory you should be able to open my NOS bottle aim it directly at the cam and turn the sprocket off.. aint going to happen on a cam that is still in place.

Do this same test in FLA at 90 degrees using what 2CCA? They still fail, you and Larry have all the data, these BS theories are making No sense.

Fact I bought 5 cam-failed cars this summer, and zero in the winter. Repaired 15 loose sprockets from spring to fall- zero since Nov 18th. Fact we have had triple the amount of cold days here than Chicago, Minot, Rockford and everywhere else up there with no failures out of the wonderful ordinary.

Kirk J Doucette

Mike you would need better research than that. What type of oil used? Does one type of oil freeze while in-between the cam and sprocket? To many variables for this data to be accurately collected.

Maybe it’s Paul’s Wally World Oil freezing under them and causing them to break? Paul what does BOB the oil guy have to say about this? J

Kirk J Doucette

It is known for example most cly wear occurs at start up. But assume most stress occurs at cold start up, it could still fail at any time after.

I am assuming high chain loads work the sprocket lose?


If you honestly feel that this is NOW a concern.. Post on the front page of the site for everyone to switch to 0-30 in the winter..

Kirk J Doucette

CCA has nothing to do with metallurgy or changes in dimensions, it has to do with cold motor oil.

Hey don't be upset, it's just a rhetorical question.

Maybe it's because we have Bush in the Whitehouse, or Larry is attracting more female SHO owners, or the price of hog futures.

I am not saying cold weather cause healthy cams to fail, I am saying it may not help.


I post on FAQ all over the place for folks to weld their cams, that I trust 100%

0w-30 may not hurt, I have run it. but I would weld first.


Metal tends to become more brittle at cold temperatures. Certain steels have a temperature at which they suddenly become very brittle. The Liberty ships of WWII would occasionally crack in half in very cold waters. Maybe the sprocket's gripper teeth break if it's really cold?


Also something on the Liberty Ships with the welding.. They really advanced welding and shipbuilding technology building 1000's of those cargo ships. They had problems with them sinking or leaking on the Runs to Murmansk {sp?} in the cold waters of the North Sea..


maybe just more people aware of the site.. You would think it being could up here 6 months of the year that there would be more failures.. but with the limited amount up here probably not.

one way you could test the theory is use cans of freon {you guys still get it over the counter right..}

when i first start on shop floors in 1986 we use to use the freon to chill/freeze stuck wheel nuts and then hit them hard with a hammer, they would fall right off.



This is a legitimate question.

Kirk, Tim said nothing about shrinking metal, but cold does effect metal. The COLD effects a lot of things on startup and is proven to be harder on a motor than any other time. (except maybe a 10,000 rpm attempt to grenade one)

cold weather means that oils get thicker. Oil also doesn't flow through the system as well. Stress on everything increases so it can all add up to push a sprocket that is working loose, over the edge, in cold weather.

Also, the failures have been all over the place, not just the upper mid-west...right Tim?

So we have thicker oil and more brittle metal, less lubrication.....it can all add up to pushing this part that is already prone to failure, over the edge.

A couple of months doesn't prove a total theory, but Tim, can you find out if this cold weather trend has happened in the last 2-3 years also?

Finally, 0-30 oils DO reduce stress on the motor on very cold start-up. I have seen the dramatic results myself, don't need anyone else to verify it. Cars crank faster with 0-30 SYNTHETIC than with even 5-30 synthetic of the same brand, when the temps fall to zero and below.

Changing to 0-30 oil would be a good thing, as there are no down sides to it, you are still running a proper 30 weight oil when there is any heat in it, and upon cold startup the oil flows through the filter and passages MUCH sooner and easier, lowering friction and start-up wear. 0-30 is safe to run year-round, not just in the winter.

Nobody suggested anyone stop driving V8 SHO's in cold weather, Tim just speculated about why so many failures this winter. Paying attention to a proper oil for the temperature is just good common sense no matter what car you drive, and again, if you have a SHO V8 and the cams aren't fixed (welded or pinned) then you should get it done. I am in favor of welding, I mention the pinning procedure because it is a viable fix, I just don't think the extra cost/downtime is worth it, so please, nobody flame me because I even mention it.

Don Mallinson

Have any of you shade tree mechanics ever froze some thing to get a pressed part off?............I always use a little heat to get a stubborn part loose? ….Just a thought

Heath LaRue

The Tornado took out the Shadetree, but some of the bigger Cat stuff at work tells you to put the parts in the freezer to make assembly easier, when it comes to ambient temp the parts become very snug, but then again we have some bearings we cook in hot oil to get them to slip on the shaft :-)

John Stout

I've read all the replies. Here are some points I think we need to keep in mind and defer to Hammy.

1) Cam "bearing" surfaces are Al. Al. Expands and contracts much more aggressively in response to temp changes than steel or any of it's other similar alloys.

2) The sprocket and shaft are made of different grades of steel and will have different expansion rates.

3) This has already been mentioned but steel parts are more brittle when cold (like the valves breaking off versus bending debate when cold).

So in recap. The cams will be harder to turn in the head upon cold startup as the Al has shrunk to them tighter and it will be harder for the oil to get pumped up into the "bearings" on first start due to increased thickness of the oil, and decreased cam to bearing gap due to material contraction around the cam. This combined with he fact that the little "splines" WILL be more brittle does make me go hmmmmm.

What we really need to think further on this is data from Hammy about if the expansion/contraction rates of the sprocket and shaft materials are different. Even if the shaft doesn't shrink as much as the sprocket when chilled the sprocket will "bite" in better when cold as it cools, then once the cam warms up some of that "biting in" has reduced the interference fit once the shaft and sprocket warm up.

Heat cycling is the enemy that I cam promise you but at what level is unknown, weather it promotes failure in the cold or failure in the warm is the real question. There are multiple factors at play that I am sure of.

There I'm done now,

Scott Krietemeyer

Sure I can to some degree but we don't really need to. Didn't we talk about this before a while back?

3 main variables will be factors in the dimensional difference wrt the temp expansion coefficient of of our joint.

Material composition, dimension and mass. Alone or any combo of.

The mat'ls are very similar. The dimension is interference. The mass is equal being the contact area.

That being said, the ID of the sprocket shrinks at almost exactly the same rate and will finish up at almost the exact same % of shrinkage as the OD of the shaft. They do not recede away from each other but rather they go the same way. Both smaller. If anything, the ID sprocket will shrink more % wise due to the OD of the sprocket being a larger surface area. The difference here would be immeasurable to the equipment we have in our lab. Best we can do is .00005" which is so-so for a lab.

Another way to look at this is we calibrate say a 36"-37" micrometer in the lab at 68deg. We then take it up to the turbine floor to measure the 36" solid shaft which is at 50deg. We bring the temp of the micrometer up to the shaft temp checked by a calibrated temp gun. When equal, we measure. It is accepted (not by us) that the difference is inconsequential to our reading and therefore is a record able measurement.

Coming off nights here so might not be explaining this to good but that is my opinion.

No worthwhile opinion on the load thing.

John Hamilton

I thought the "bearing surfaces" were two halves sandwiched together, one on top, one on bottom? It's been a while since I've looked. But if that's the case, then the "shrinking" Aluminum would actually pull away from the cam, and make it easier to spin.

Either way, I can't believe that any auto manufacturer, even Ford, could possibly be so incompetent as to design and build a vehicle that can't operate properly in the ambient temperatures of the climates that it was destined to be sold in.

As far as "heat cycling", any failure of a warm-climate-only car would tend to indicate that it's not the cold that hurts the cams, it's the heat of running the engine, as those cars have never seen temps below 40 or 50 degrees, but still failed.

-John Breen III

John, when think of shrinkage due to temp think of a pic or diagram on the computer. Then go up and shrink it down say by 25%. Everything gets smaller, including the holes. It can get confusing when thinking of shrinkage.

John Hamilton

Most Manufacturers do testing in MN {forget the name} or in Kirkland Lake on or if they have deep pockets Like GM Diesel Division here does, they could go to Elgin AFB and pay to use the climatic chamber there. GMDD flew down some LAV during the Marine Corp prelimns and put them in that and ran them down to -60 Deg f. That chamber will go down to just above absolute 0.

as for 0-30 oil, only time I saw it in regular use was in the army, my Svc Btn was responsible for rotating the vehicles thru the DEW line and other northern Canada {read deep artic} monitoring outposts. on the gas/propane vehicles we would use it made by ESSO going there. even then the vehicles were plugged in or just filled full of fuel and left to idle all night or parked inside. Mr. Lube used to carry it here over the counter but not a big seller.. I can check my engine notes as I do not think at normal cold temperatures there is much difference in the flow rates of 0w and 5w oil. at moderate to extreme cold the gap widens, but how many list people drive or live in that environment.


Heath, It happens all the time. Different metals expand or contract at different rates. Looking at the SHO V8 cam/sprocket, if you cool the sprocket, the hole should open up as the metal contracts away from the center of the part, it will also shrink in total OD. Metal will shrink to the center of mass. The shaft on the other hand will also contract towards the middle. Thus the sprocket could be measurably (maybe only by NASA standards though) "Looser" during cold weather.

And this isn't contradictory. The shaft will shrink away from the center and outer edges too, so both parts are behaving in the same manner, but the result is the sprocket can be looser than normal.

Don Mallinson

Yes and no. It depends on the wall thickness of the nut in relation to the diameter (actually the circumference) of the interior hole. In most cases, the hole will enlarge when the nut is heated, thus loosening the nut on the stud/bolt. However, if the nut has a small hole and is very thick (from the hole to the outside wall), it will actually tighten on the stud/bolt. Calculus can be used to determine the shrinkage/expansion of the hole, but I have successfully eliminated that formula/series from my brain since Calc II. All I remember off-hand is that it is commonly called the "washer" formula, b/c most textbooks use a washer as an example. And of course, the metallurgy will complicate the equation even more.

OK, enough nit-picking... I'll leave that to the engineers,

Dan Carman

sounds like a VERY good hypothesis.....maybe the steel of those sprockets was marginal to begin with, and the cold temps just enhance the weakness/brittleness??? 

James Jensen (extremely inept metallurgist) '97 es, 124k, Dallas, TX WELDED cams

If cold is bad then are we using Cryo'ed Brake Rotors and Gun Barrels, ever hear of Cold Forging?? ok someone smarter than me talk :-)

John Stout

Again, if it was a matter of cold temperatures, then we shouldn't see any failures in the "deep south" or failures in the middle of the summer driving down the interstate at 75 MPH. If the steel is THAT bad, why isn't the heat of the engine melting the splines on the sprocket? Nobody has made that assertion yet, because steel technology, especially for use in ICE's has come a long way in the last 50 years.

And as far as chilling them with freon as someone else suggested, if you take anything down closer to absolute zero, it will break, regardless of the material. Just like dipping a tennis ball in liquid nitrogen. Show me a place on the earth that naturally reaches THAT low of a temperature. You'd never get gasoline to flow, much less hold a charge in any battery at those temps.

-John Breen III

There certainly is some basis for this. The higher strength the steel is the more potential there is for it to have reduced notch toughness and for its behavior to be different at cold temperatures. This has been a factor in some building collapses. You can't get a proper-sized specimen out of a camshaft to run a test on, but otherwise that is another piece of data that would be good to know for our case against the manufacture of the cams.

John has never been to Canada in the cold of winter.... one question they asked when putting my Tru-cool max transmission cooler in was "do i drive in winter" since i replied yes, they put he thremostatic bypass switch in. self regulates the flow thru the cooler based on the transmission temperature.

my freon idea was for testing to see if the made a difference.



try this..

from my school notes..


Again, I didn't (and I don't think Tim did) suggest that cold temperatures are the total cause of the failure.

These are parts that were going to fail eventually, and cold weather/thick oil/poor lubrication/and yes, even a little metal shrinkage all may be adding up to bring on a noticeable increase in failures when a cold snap hits. I seem to remember we had similar discussions the last two winters. IT seems to be a trend. these are parts that would have failed on California, cars, but maybe a few weeks/months later.

I am not saying an otherwise healthy (or as healthy as the really poorly designed SHO V8 cam sprocket can be) cam will fail, just because it turns cold outside. Please read that last sentence again, I don't think anyone is saying that.

Don Mallinson

Guys............. We are talking about zero degree temps here not 500 below.. There is im sure just like Hammy already said NO CHANGE in the metals with such a small degree in change of temps.

Yes it does turn over slower, yes it does make for more friction. No there is no trend, no proof that this is happening to us. Never has been and never will be.. You guys can continue writing books about this, but before you hit send think of the cars that failed in warm temps, hot temps.. The last failure I read about was a guy traveling outside Gary IN, on the highway where his engine temp was 190-212 degrees above zero.... Where are the failures that say it was zero and I went out after a week of my car sitting I went to turn it over and from all the friction it went BOOM? No where because this is not happening...

Tim is talking about liquid Nitrogen now (why I have not a clue), sure at Minus 320 degrees below zero some shrinkage may happen causing this, or even better yet lets go to absolute zero at -459 degrees below zero things may get screwed up.. not a zero..

Then we have my car to use as well, I did not weld it until last Feb and with god knows how many miles and the car sits all winter every winter why did I never see this? I JUST before I left moved my car from the outside to the inside before I left for Nashville, it sat out side from Dec 12th the last time I started it until Jan30th, Look at the weather that New England had then, you want to talk about cold?????? 29 days of below freezing weather in Jan.. plus all the really bad cold nasty stuff like wind chills for days below -40. Guess what happened when I went to start it up?

Yup Vroom! With a 3yrold Duralast Battery and Amsoil.. gave it a few mins then had to beat it a bit to get out of the snow and Ice it was stuck in... Sure this is my car, and only one car out of the 20k but come on guys cold startup are NOT causing any problems. Unless they are already loose in which it's the owners fault for not hearing the noise before they shut it off, and then and only then I give it a SLIM maybe..

Why Didn't Clare's, Hammys, Tim Porter, Ian and all the other 96-and 97's that I know about die in Canada when they are a lot colder than us? All of those cars were at least 5 years old before they got welded and they did not fail because of the temps..

Honestly I think people in the Midwest need to do more things, it seems like and Im not stereotyping but the majority of these off the wall theories come from that area..

Kirk J Doucette


Just like a few cars in February failing doesn't make a 100% trend, YOUR car NOT failing doesn't make a trend either.

Again....this is getting tiring, but I guess it must be said again....

NOBODY here that I have read, is saying that because it is zero outside that an otherwise good cam is failing.

There IS some proof that something is happening in cold weather, there has been a noticeable spike in failures compared to the last few months. This has happened the last couple of winters If I remember right, and Tim never said it was a 100% sure bet, neither did anyone else.

Kirk, just take a breath, this isn't anything to get into a huge fight over. There is evidence that cold weather may cause some cams that probably were about to fail, to fail a bit sooner. There IS a spike in failures, and that is all Tim was saying. That you haven't had your own car fail in the winter is not proof either way. That we see a spike this month or last is not real proof of that either, but at least it IS SOME indicator.

We speculate all the time. I don't see why it is so hard to believe that cold weather combined with more friction, thicker oils, less lubrication etc could have SOME effect on a sprocket that was about to fail anyway.

Plus metals DO get effected at temps nowhere near 500 below. Many times, parts are assembled at home by putting one in the freezer and another in the oven. The combined difference in temps is maybe a couple hundred degrees and this is a known and common method to make a slight interference fit, go together.

There isn't anything any of us can do about cam failures except what we are already doing, which is to tell everyone to get cams fixed NOW, rather than later.

NO flames, no war, just trying to sort fact from assumption.

Don Mallinson

I guess again I suffer from email fight ittus.. Im not fighting either and apologize if it looks that way....

But Don where is the PROOF? Speculation from 1 or two others is nothing to listen to, it needs to become wide spread in I dunno anything above the Bible belt? Did you ever brake anything in the Grand Prix during a start up in the winter?

You of all people (being OLD) <---- should know this better than anyone LOL. We went through this when all the data was being collected in 01-and 02 when this really became well know. It was dismissed then and should be today. Now today there are 2 people that bring it back up to the attention of a few and now we are discussing something you and Both Tim dismissed years ago..

If this was coming about after a 10 day cold snap and to satisfy me would have to be uh -40 for 10 days and 10 cars blew up in the same exact area I might consider it to have a bit of merit, otherwise IMO and in my eyes this topic is a complete JOKE.

You know if someone was to sho proof I would back it up, but all this speculation is just creating a major problem for the hundreds of people that just read this list and never respond.

I would need these proven

1. Hammy needs to test the cam at temps that we have had.. and No one has been below the air temp of minus 10 for longer than 12 hrs so lets use that as a test figure. 2. Cheap oil is part water and getting in the sprocket and forcing the teeth off of the cam. Oil additives in motor? 3. That this shrinkage effect is real and why it don't effect the crank, or break the main chain, of move the PRESSED on lobes off instead

I have a better one for you.. Recently I have seen two motors that broke the main sprocket off, where it bolts to the end of the cam. it's a loose press fit with a single small locating pin, I've seen two, does that that mean that we all should be welding the end sprocket because of what I have seen? Nope, could it be the next problem? Sure! But where is any proof to see what and why its happening? What would it do if we started talking about it with no findings?

Im not arguing either or starting a fight, but until there is proof of this COLD weather issue, I will be there to dismiss every email until there is proof to shut me up. :) LOL

Kirk J Doucette

It could be a number of other things.

It could be that people are more likely to sit in front of their computers and search the web when it is too cold to look for a new car.

Best Regards, Doug


My last words on this. I am NOT saying it causes otherwise good cams to fail. Please read that again. You seem to be saying that is what I or Tim have claimed. He noticed a trend, you called it utter bunk (not your words, but for sure your intent) and I am just saying there is at least more to say it DOES happen than the other way.

Read my notes again, this isn't about good cars going bad, and what in the heck has my 66 Grand Prix (former Grand Prix) got to do with ANY of this? Totally different type of car and design of cam. You know that.....quit tossing out little argument hand grenades like that! :) Stay on topic at least!

I know I am not the only one that hears more noises from my SHO in winter than in summer. More noise means more metal to metal. Geez, it was just speculation and I stand behind it. You don't have to believe the world is coming to an end to just admit that MAYBE there is more stress put on the entire system and that can push an already bad sprocket over the edge.

That is ALL I or Tim or anyone else is saying.

Even IF it is totally untrue, what harm is this doing to you or anyone else? You are reacting like this is a personal affront to YOU. The trend is real, if the theory is wrong, and you or I can't really prove it either way, then who cares? Nobody recommended a course of action, nobody is shouting the sky is falling. Don't read more into it than it is.


Enough, I am getting really tired of having to be blasted for having opinions or backing them up. Enough.

Don Mallinson

I thought the "bearing surfaces" were two halves sandwiched together, one on top, one on bottom? It's been a while since I've looked. But if that's the case, then the "shrinking" Aluminum would actually pull away from the cam, and make it easier to spin.

Either way, I can't believe that any auto manufacturer, even Ford, could possibly be so incompetent as to design and build a vehicle that can't operate properly in the ambient temperatures of the climates that it was destined to be sold in.

As far as "heat cycling", any failure of a warm-climate-only car would tend to indicate that it's not the cold that hurts the cams, it's the heat of running the engine, as those cars have never seen temps below 40 or 50 degrees, but still failed.

John Breen III

Since Ford was incompetent in the basic design of the sprocket, and manufacturers have been known to totally miss the mark on cooling many times, this isn't hard to believe. :)

BUT, the point isn't so much the metal changing dimension as the cold effecting stress all the way around, especially with thick conventional oils. Even with 0-30 synthetics the stress on all the parts in a very cold engine are higher.

also, the metal is much harder (thus denser) on the inner surface of the sprocket than on the shaft. Thus the shaft can shrink more in cold weather than the ID of the sprocket. The more dense (harder) the metal, the less space to shrink in cold weather (or expand in hot).

BUT this isn't what kills the cams, it is a small but important PART of what kills the cams, and a possible part of why we seem to see more failures when really cold weather hits.

The bad part design is the cause of the failure, the cold just brings on the inevitable total failure sooner due to increased stress and other small factors, on a part that was about to fail anyway.

It isn't rocket science, but just logic.

Don Mallinson

Mmmmm, no Don. Not the way it works. You lay out a strip of metal .005" thick. Lay out another chunk of the same length of metal 1" thick. Then cool or heat to whatever. They expand to the same dimension. The rate of expansion will be different but the end dimension is the same.

Density and hardness are not related. Grain structure does not always co-relate to density. Depleted uranium at work is very, very dense but machines like butter on a hot summer day. The rate of expansion between the sprocket and shaft might be slightly different but very minute. This goes for welded cams as well with the welding media thrown in as a third party metal. It will be different then the host metals.

Based on all this theory I guess my engine must be dead. 160k non-welded motor with ~1,000 sub zero starts and rarely a warm up before going. No block heater, sits outside. There is not that much variation in the tolerances to account for mine still going then. Until proven I am not jumping on this temperature theory.

All of the above strictly tech talk, anyone gets personal and I won't post. (I'm cranky in the morning when on nights *<:)

John Hamilton

John & Don,

I generally stay out of pie fights (I am too large a target), and I lack the eloquence to put it all in one sentence but may I suggest this approach?

The turning effort on cams is not even, uneven turning effort combined with off-center pull works the sprockets loose over time. During very cold weather the peak tension on timing chains is higher than during warm weather operation. So the changes in tension are also greater, the sprocket itself gets wobbled harder.

This may weaken an already faulty design and accelerate failure if they are already weakened making failure all the sooner.

Last year we had a Dec, Jan, Feb surge. Maybe that was a fluke?

This year we have a Jan, Feb surge, Maybe that is a part of a re-occurring pattern?

Next year I think almost all surviving V8SHO will be welded, so it may not be an issue.

I run 5w-30 Mobil 1 year round and my car lives in a garage. That is because I purchased 4 cases of Mobil 1 at one time.

If my situation were different I don't think Mobil 1 oil of 0w-30 weight and a trouble light or two under the hood would hurt anything for winter use.

Anytime I do choose to run 0w-30 we are all but guaranteed a mid winter.

I don't recommend 0w-30 as an effective prevention strategy. I emphatically recommend welding to prevent failure for all V8 SHO in any climate or location or with any amount of mileage.

"All V8 SHO should have welded cams."

Is there anything I said that does not make sense?


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