04/13/2007
Hey now,
I'm still having a surging problem between idle and approx. 2500 rpms. I can hear random pops or what I thought were misses when I push the throttle to 1800 or so rpms. I think the popping (missing) may be from just getting too much fuel. This seems to coincide with the surging I'm feeling while driving.
I replaced the rear coils a couple of months ago and moved the best ones I had left over to the front. Last Friday I swapped the front coils around with one coil I had left which I'm pretty sure is still good but still no luck. I also replaced both upstream O2 sensors.
Today I played with the TPS a little. When I disconnected the plug and gave it a little gas I couldn't hear the popping or miss anymore. Does that make any sense? Need help please.
Also, anyone ever had their tach needle go crazy? Sometimes reads 0 rpms at idle then jumps back up to normal. The needle hesitates a lot.
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Joel Hinson
99 TR SHO (welded, borlas w/ no 3rd cat, intake mods, XCal2, Blue Interior LEDs, 96 Power Seat Track)
Auburn, AL
War Eagle!
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Possible Crank Position Sensor malfunction? It's the whole "Loses Tach
input" for me leaning this way.
Eric Lehmann
97 Ebony 42k Welded - With the Angels Now so that I don't have to be.
Long Live the Garage Queen !
96 Medium Willow Green Metallic 103k Resurrected, Welded
96 Rosemist 72k 2006 Best Of SHO, Popular Vote, Welded
96 Medium Graphite 120k - Resurrected, Welded
97 Pacific Green - Parting this one Out
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My baby had a similar problem REAL bad at the beginning of last winter. I would start her up and she would be fine, but then once warmed up when I shifted into neutral or park the tach would climb up to at least 3000rpm. I can't exactly remember what made that stop, but I know I've replaced the TPS, crank position sensor, and cam position sensor. Just two months ago she started throwing the tach all over the place when cold. On real cold mornings the engine would stall. The tach would go from 0 (or near) to 1500 and back a few times. We found the top of the engine loose from the last person who had worked on it and once that was tightened up the problem went away. Sorry, I don't have any real solutions.
Kate Gubert
97 ES welded 200k
97 PG cam failure #754 91k
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Why not just swap out the crank position sensor, cam position sensor,
and TPS? They are possibly the 3 easiest maintenance tasks you can do
on the SHO, and they are all dirt cheap, too. The only trick is
getting the TPS screws loose. Sometimes those things are frozen
pretty tight.
Dan Carman
Philadelphia, PA
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I found some exposed wire where the leads go into the crankshaft position sensor connector. One of them was almost completely severed. I hope this is my main problem.
Will a malfunctioning CKP cause surging?
Joel Hinson
99 TR SHO (welded, borlas w/ no 3rd cat, intake mods, XCal2, Blue Interior LEDs, 96 Power Seat Track)
Auburn, AL
War Eagle!
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Usually just stops you dead in your tracks. I suppose anything is
possible as you begin to cut through that last hair of wire.
Eric Lehmann
97 Ebony 42k Welded - With the Angels Now so that I don't have to be.
Long Live the Garage Queen !
96 Medium Willow Green Metallic 103k Resurrected, Welded
96 Rosemist 72k 2006 Best Of SHO, Popular Vote, Welded
96 Medium Graphite 120k - Resurrected, Welded
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More likely it would cause momentarily stalling that may feel like surging to some. You can get the pigtail replacement from Ford but be aware the instructions do not indicate that the wires are in fact polarized. Did mine last year. Drove me crazy when I replaced it and the car would not start back up. Posted pics of how bad mine got earlier last year but don't have them here right now.
Carter Fuji
Latitude 35.23948924537855, Longitude -94.30673988764765
'97 ES Whoosh CarDomain Site
Supercharger Video Link
Greenwood, AR.
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If the shielding is compromised you will get weird things happening. The crank sensor is either a go no-go signal and no-go is dead ignition.
Paul
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Just saw a place on line the other day with crank and cam position sensor pigtails. Wish I could remember where it was.
But the shielding would only be from the PCM to the connector but not terminated at the connector.
Ground loops and all.
Paul
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First off, I just wanted to make sure Fast Parts Network sent me the right CKP. Does anyone know if this part number is correct? DY-1007 (5L8Z-6C315-AA) Just asking because the sensor was mostly metal as opposed to plastic which is what I pulled out.
Second, I replaced the CPS, CKP, and damaged wire along with the connector to the CKP. I'm not real happy with the job I did on replacing the connector and wire. Had to remove a couple inches of the shielding and tried to replace with shielding I extracted from coaxial cable. May have to do over.
Third, the surging issue seems to be gone with what little driving I did last night. But the tach is still craping out on me at idle or really low rpms. I mean it drops to zero then I hit the gas and it comes back to where it should be. It was doing this before but seems a little worse now. Any insight?
Nevermind I felt the surge this morning on my way to work. I really thought it was gone while driving last night.
Could oil around the sensor cause it to malfunction?
Joel
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The sensor I bought from a national chain parts store late last year was also mostly metal and very magnetic.
Carter Fuji
Latitude 35.23948924537855, Longitude -94.30673988764765
'97 ES Whoosh CarDomain Site
Supercharger Video Link
Greenwood, AR.