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Ok, after several weeks of not being able to even look at my SHO (weddings,
sister coming in from out of state, etcÖ) I am finally free this weekend to get
my rear back to work on pulling the engineÖ especially since the boss has to
work all day Saturday. However, I do have a couple questions and request any
advice from those that has pulled an engine from a SHO before.
Where I am at currently: I have completely disconnected the wiring harness at this time (good lord I didnít realize there were so many connectors) and numerous vacuum hoses. I have pulled the valve covers from the front and rear heads (mechanic friend wanted to take a look at the other cams to ensure we werenít looking at multiple cam failure or replacement before we got to far in). I intend on draining the radiator this weekend to pull the hoses. Without looking at the car or the manual, I canít remember what else I need to do in preparation besides loosening the motor mount bolts and the tranny.
Question: my mechanic friend and I were discussing how to pull the engine and what will be simpler. We both decided it would be the easiest to drop the engine and lift the car but I wanted some feedback on how others have gone about pulling the engine so we make sure we are doing it the easiest way possible. Sorry, thereís no solid oak trees around the shop but we do have a fork lift that we plan on working with. Anything to watch out for or to be aware of? FYI, I'm no master mechanic by any means and normally just turn wrenches for fun with my mechanic friend so my terminology is probably a little off.
Neil (still hoping to fix his SHO) Kitt
96 Silver SHO
Cam Failure 430
You'll want the Ford Service CD for sure. Tips... and stuff you can do first.
Pull the windshield wipers, and plastic Cowl panels. Drain Coolant,
Remove P/S pump and tie it back out of the way leaving the high pressure line attached.
Remove Passenger side cooling fan, unbolt A/C compressor and tie it up in the area where the fan used to be. This will allow you to not have to mess with the R-131 when you get it running again.
Follow Ford procedure (except my changes above) to lower the Engine and transmission as an assembly.
Ball joints are a pain to disconnect but with a big enough hammer and a hit fore and aft of the ball joint on the A-Arm will usually get the taper to resonate enough that the A arm will separate and keep your ball joints intact... This needs to be done with a BFH for sure. The lower steering shaft is just a total pain to get separated and back together BTW....
Good luck, have fun and bring your complete 4 letter word vocabulary along for your first time in doing this task as I had exhausted mine in rather short order my first time.
Yes, drop it out the bottom on the sub frame. Now there are a couple of different ways to do this as though I drop it with the struts and steering rack, a few others have done it by leaving these items in the car since they had pneumatic tools at there disposal. My method requires removing the 10mm bolt below the universal joint on the steering shaft under the floorboard rubber boot and the 3 bolts on the top of the strut towers.
The other method would require separating the strut from the knuckles and the steering rack from the sub frame or the knuckles from the ball joints.
The toughest plug to get in my book were the rear O2 sensors and the one I missed last time is the charcoal canister sensor plug in the passenger corner of the firewall.
I tell you, If you use a couple long, narrow, straight blade screw drivers, its not that tough to disconnect the plugs. Mine are like 12 inches. Push in the button with one, use the other to pry them apart. I ended switching one around and had to re-unhook it. It literally took me 30 seconds. Putting them back together is a different story. I used my fingers to get them lined up, then about 24 inches of 3/8 ratchet extensions to push them together. My 10 year old nephew also made it easier.
I certainly am going to use that method the next time.
Too add to what the others have said, everyone has a different way of doing
it, but dropping out the bottom is really the only practical way.
I prefer to drop it with the rack and just disconnect the reservoir and the
joint at the firewall, pop the tie rod ends, pop the ball joints out with a
pitman arm puller (leaving the struts and knuckles on the car), and just
disconnect the two spring lock connectors on the lines coming from the A/C
compressor and leave the compressor on the motor (I've never quite
understood the fascination with leaving the A/C system intact, just popping
off the two lines and recharging the system when you're done takes a lot
less time and frustration then leaving the compressor in the car IMHO).
To get to the O2 sensor connectors behind the rack, once you disconnect the
end links you can swing the sway bar out of the way which makes it 1000 times
easier to get to those two connectors.
A few key things to remember before dropping it out is to remove the two
13mm bolts from the oil pan into the tranny bell housing, the torque
converter nuts, and the two motor mount nuts; otherwise you'll be ticked off
trying to find a way to get under the whole shebang to get to those once
it's on the ground.
When you are getting ready to put it back in, dress the harness on the motor
first, it makes it a heck of a lot easier.
Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress.
Drop the entire sub frame. Get engine crane, pull the bumper cover, make yourself some insanely sturdy engine jacks, and git er done.
By the way I just realized what you had written this morning, if you pull the single large rectangular plug on the firewall (secured with an 8mm IIRC)for the ECU and the monster square plug (also secured with a bolt) above the transmission under the intake tube, most all of the other electrical connections other then the alternator and starter cables can stay on the motor when dropping it on the sub frame. It you end up dropping it with the cats and "Y"-pipe you can also leave the O2 wires in place (did that the last time I pulled it all out since I started to strip the rear manifold bolts.
You know, after finding that rectangular connector on the firewall a couple weekends ago, I had a feeling that would be all I needed to do. Thanks all for the information, you have answered my questions and provided great advice. I just hope something doesnít come up to prevent me from working on the car yet another weekend. I really want to get the SHO back on the road.
As for the four letter word dictionary, between my friends and myself, we have gone through about every word that we have ever used in the past... might be time to actually bring in the dictionary. On the bright side, we all (my friends and I) have bled on the engine at different times so the sacrifice to the mechanic gods should be satisfied at this point.
Neil (if you donít bleed on it, itís not going to work) Kitt
Good form Sir ! Not sure why, But very sure I am !
No Blood = Not a good sign.
(Picking Scabs Doesn't count either - Must be FRESH Sacrifice every day)
OK I don't often hijack a thread, however during the course of the rebuilding of SW9 it became a mantra. If you don't bleed, it don't run. Period.
Don't forget to pull the heater core hoses from the metal tubes attached to the expansion chamber under the EGR. They are secured by those black spring clamps.