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Here are some pics of mine lowered. As you can see it makes quite a difference. The ride quality is not reduced and if anything it handles slightly better in the turns due to the lower center of gravity. 5/8ths was the most I felt comfortable lowering the front, this allows for the CV boot to expand 1/8th due to centrifugal force. Apparently this was just right as I've had the car up to 140 and no contact was made. I'm currently running 60 series tires (which suck) and this prevented me from lowering the rear more than 3/4's. In the rear the strut will only drop 1" and with 60 series tires they will hit the base of the spring. In about 2 weeks I'll have some 50 series Kumho's and I will know doubt slot the hole in the tab and bring her down another 1/8 to 1/4. Whatever there's room for.
Drilling the tab is no big deal. Go out and purchase the drill bits I specified in the "lowering instructions" that are made for metals such as iron or steel. Cobalt grade bits work very well. Regardless of the bit you use oil it every 15-20 secs and I don't mean with wd-40. Use some gear or motor oil, put it in a soda bottle cap or something similar and dip the bit in it.
When your done go get it lined up. If the negative camber issue has never been addressed on your car then be prepared to fork out a few bucks. The cars have to much negative camber from the factory and the strut stud holes have to be slotted out. This is why the SHO eats up the interior edge of the tires so quickly. If this has already been done to yours then you may or may not need an alignment. Mine didn't need it but it doesn't hurt to check.
(Click to enlarge photos)