Hi Steve here is some info for you
My service is 674.00 complete out the door. But I donít not just weld cams, I service the car and fix other issues that will soon happen.
Service includes all parts and labor
Clean Surge tank
Upper and lower set of runners
Remove the IMRC Remove oil and carbon deposits Ė back to a factory clean Prevents the IMRC cable from braking costing you 125.00
Install new Plugs
Soak injectors in a cleaning solution, replace the Injector O-rings
New Upper and Lower intake gaskets
Thermal protect the rear main wiring harness from burning up
All parts are Factory Motorcraft and direct replacement parts, and supplied by me. If you have special motor oil you can supply that, otherwise parts are supplied by myself and are not marked up.
The thing that makes me different is that unlike everybody else is, I'm not in a full time business, I'm a hobbyist that cares and protects the car. I replace things that should be replaced not because I would like to make extra money from my customers.
Let me know if your interested, I have a few dates available before the 15th of Feb, and I'm booking March and April now.
Car would need to be dropped off on a Sat Morn and picked up on Sun
I am often asked what a cam weld job includes and what else should an owner have done at the same time. Folks have different budgets and expectations but the tear down to expose and weld the cams is a big job and it only makes sense to make the job worthwhile.
Ford does have a 100k major tune up, that amounts to almost everything a cam weld job should be, except the cam weld. I would check the valve clearance Even though I think they are almost always in spec.
Even though Ford says the factory plugs should last until 100k, this is a great time to change them. It does not cost that much and the labor cost is next to nothing. If you need a 100k every 100k but do it at (for example) at 75k then your next major tune up is at 175k. You may never have to do this again.
In V8SHOs the IMRC opens the secondary valves, the car will operate without it but MUCH slower. Those secondary butterfly valves are deep in the lower intake just above the heads. In time the valves stick and the $250 IMRC will strip. It can not be fixed but must be replaced.
If you replace the IMRC but don't clean the butterfly valves the new IMRC will soon fail. The solution is to clean the butterfly valves which is a real pain. If you just soak the valves in carburetor cleaner the solvent will run down past the intake valve and dissolve oil around the piston rings. Start up can then cost you an engine.
One should remove the lower intake and clean it on a bench where there is no risk to the motor. Unless you drop a few bolts down the intake, then you need to remove the head!
The point I hope I am making it cleaning the lower intake is important but don't lose an engine in the process. This is not a job to learn on or for folks who are all thumbs .
Kirk also recommends you disconnect the battery and the computer; turn the engine over by hand. On front cam has a huge hex on it and I think it will take a 1.25" or 1.125" wrench to turn over the engine.
Several folks have toasted their PCM with the welder, most folks don't want to replace that.
In theory a shop or owner with the proper mechanical and welding skills can try this. First question might be, where is the extra cam you will use to adjust your welder? This is NOT a job to learn on. several folks have tried and ruined 4 cams or a motor. Pick your shops carefully. How many V8 SHOs weld jobs have they done? Have they lost any? Do they have spare parts on the shelf? Do they stand behind their work if they hose up the job?
You also want the power steering fluid changed if it is is more than 25k old.
This isn't detailed or all exhaustive to-do list but is isn't a bad start.
Questions, comments? Send 'em, I'll post them here,