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New 09/30/2004
This is what I found. A bunch of tiny little spheres. They appear to be
perfectly round and some have piggy backers. I would assume that this would be
welding splatter and the couple odd shaped pieces are slag? Other than that and,
a few pieces of gasket material, I found nothing. No sludge, just oil. The
screen had two rather small pieces of gasket material stuck in it.
If I did have a bearing problem, wouldn't I find some evidence? Wouldn't there
be some shavings or something? I'd really like to find the source of the noise.
Would it be a good idea to just go ahead and replace the pump while its opened
up?
Thanks
Joe Wede
97 ES
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The oil pump is mounted around the front of the crankshaft and requires removing
the timing chain and cover. Did you have your cams welded? That looks typical of
what I have seen on some cars that were welded on the first oil change
afterwards.
Carter Fuji
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I had them welded. The oil has been changed three times since. I was more amazed
that there were no fillings or other pieces of metal.
Joe
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You say you are hearing a ticking or is it a knocking and does it only happen
when you start it or does is continue after it settles down to an idle? How many
miles on it? I couldn't say for sure since other then the burned piston I had
due to a failing injector during a rather high speed run, even at 12 psi of
boost my bearings looked brand new. Even the original motor that had 94k on it
had really good looking bearings though it didn't ever see a supercharger.
I have seen the insides of a couple that had bearing wear but they were engines
that went a little to far on standard dino-oil and sludged up. Kirk may have
seen some more and have better insight.
Carter Fuji
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At cold start up, I get a knock and oil light for about 1 second. Light goes
out, knock goes away. It only does it if it has sat for a while. One theory was
that bearing wear was letting the oil drain from the galleries. Another was that
the oil pump was loosing prime. A third was that the car was emptying the oil
pan that quickly. Ford did a pressure test and told me it had 70psi at start up,
and 25 psi @ 1500 RMP hot. They couldn't explain why the light was coming on.
Everyone once and a while it will come on, flick right back off, only to come
right back on for the remainder of the knocking, about a second or less. I have
been accused of being paranoid before
Joe
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You might go ahead and replace the pressure switch since it is cheap and easy to
get at, but I am concerned the knock is corresponding to the light illumination.
I know if I had a high pressure air line from a compressor I would blow back
through the filter to the pump but not sealing it to allow loose or pasty stuff
to be blown back out. Probably would be a good idea to do the same thing with
the sump tube. Again, don't do this sealing the point of entry as that would
pack whatever is up there tighter.
Generally a rod or bearing knock due to damage gets louder as the RPMs rise. So
I would be more inclined to think would are suffering from a clogging that goes
away as the RPM's pick up, IMNSHO.
Carter Fuji
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Okay, before anybody says anything, yes, the "n" key works, I just miss it a
lot.
Carter Fuji
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On my '93 that had the broken bearing the rod knock would be loudest after you
accelerated then let up and maintained speed or very slowly dropped speed. When
under acceleration there is pressure on the bearing that would keep the noise
down.
If I went to the trouble to pull off the pan I would replace the rod bearings
too. IIRC you need new bolts and the bearing size you need is stamped inside the
block.
Paul Nimz
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For what its worth, once the light goes out, no more noise.
Joe
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Actually it is fairly easy. You've already do the hard work.
Paul Nimz
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I forgot to reply, the car has just shy of 90K on it. Where abouts would I look
for the bearing size? So, is it as easy as pulling the cap of and putting the
new bearings in and re-torqueing the new bolts? I can't imagine that is all it
takes. What can I expect to pay for bearings?
Joe
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After looking at the sequence required to do this you are probably right. Not as
easy as the V6. Apparently you will need to remove the lower part of the block.
I could be wrong though.
Paul Nimz
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Rod bearings can be done just as easily on the V8 as on the V6, especially since
you have the pan off now. After reassembly, install a real oil pressure gauge
and see if maybe your sender is out to lunch.
While the pan is off, take the oil pump pickup tube and screen and clean it out
good by running solvent through it backwards (there is a gasket on the tube to
oil pump inlet that is small so be aware of that.
You'll need:
16 Connecting rod cap bolts (about $2 each as they are the same as the 2.5
Duratech parts...
8 sets of rod bearings (not sure what the price is on these)....
To identify the sizes needed to match the crank look here:
Hope that helps,
Scott Krietemeyer
Ps Torque specs for the cap bolts (new) are listed at the end of the steps
below:
20. Note: The connecting rod bearing tangs should align with notch in connecting
rod and cap.
Install connecting rod bearings into connecting rods and connecting rod caps.
21. CAUTION: Be sure not to scratch cylinder wall or crankshaft journal with
connecting rod. Push piston, pin and ring down until connecting rod bearing
seats on crankshaft journal.
Note: Lubricate piston, pin and rings, piston rings, connecting rods and
connecting rod bearings with Engine Assembly Lubricant D9AZ-19579-D or
equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C80-A prior to installation.
Note: Install with front mark on piston, pin and ring to front of engine.
Turn crankshaft until crankshaft throw is at bottom of stroke. Install correctly
numbered piston, pin and ring and connecting rod with Piston Ring Compressor
D81L-6002-C or equivalent and Connecting Rod Guide Tool T94P-6136-AH.
22. CAUTION: It is imperative that the connecting rod cap be properly aligned to
the connecting rod. The connecting rod and connecting rod cap bearing tangs must
be located on same side of connecting rod .
CAUTION: Connecting rod bolts must be replaced with new bolts. They are
torque-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.
Install connecting rod cap and connecting rod bearing onto connecting rod.
Alternately tighten new torque-to-yield connecting rod bolts in several passes
to 40-45 N-m (30-33 lb-ft). Rotate connecting rod bolts an additional 90-120
degrees.
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Yup, the girdle has to come off to do main bearings. The engine mounts are
through he girdle by the way so some other support is required if you really
want to do them in the car. I did get my rod caps off while the engine was in
the car though. Not to much trouble there.
Carter Fuji
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Wow, that is a real good price on those bolts, I was quoted $7.00 each!
Carter Fuji